Notes on Barcelona

This July I visited Barcelona, Spain for a week almost exactly 10 years after my first trip to that wonderful, lively city. Barcelona's joie de vivre (sorry, I don't how to say that in Catalonian!) is just unique. The city is alive and ticking 24x7x52. And La Rambla (the street that seems to be filled with tourists every day of the year) is one of my favored walks.

And for the trivia geeks - Barcelona is in the Catalonian region of Spain. The local language is Catalonian, not Spanish. If you don't speak Spanish or Catalonian, be prepared to convey more through gesture than speech with cab drivers because most of them don't understand English.

So what does the Indian tourist or traveler to Barcelona do?

First the basics.

Learn to use the metro. It is fabulous and is the best way to get around the city. Next best are the hop-on-and-off tourist buses. If you are in Barcelona for a few days, then consider buying the multiday metro pass for unlimited travel during the days that the pass is valid. One thing to watch out for - fares are set by the number of zones one traverses during a trip. If you plan to stay within the city, a single zone multiday pass should be adequate. Otherwise, consider buying a 2 zone pass.

The famed architect Gaudi has left his stamp all over Barcelona. All over. If you have just 2 hours to spend in Barcelona, you've got to spend it at the Sagrada Familia church. At least see it and walk around it from the outside. The expiatory church designed by Gaudi is constantly under construction which started about a hundred years ago and is expected to continue for another 30 years.

Other interesting sights in and around the city include the Ramblas, Parc Guell, the fountains at Montjuic, and the Gothic Quarter. There are interesting Gaudi buildings on the Gracia which runs parallel to La Rambla. The fountains at Montjuic are spectacular. Make sure you get there 10-15 minutes before sunset. The fountain lights are switched on and you get to see a spectacular dancing fountain whose water spires move to the best of renaissance music. If you plan it right, you can do all the items described in this paragraph within one day.

If you have a few days to spend in Barcelona, there are several options for entertainment.

Montserrat, a monastery on an austere stonefaced mountainside, is an hour by train from the Espanya metro stop. The trains run once an hour so be sure to check on the schedules before you start. Once you arrive at your destination, you can either take the cable car to the monastery or the funicular train. The roundtrip ticket from Espanya to Montserrat includes the cost of the cable car ride as well as 4 free metro rides. So don't throw that roundtrip ticket away after you return from Montserrat!

The town of Figures, also an hour away, is host to the Dali museum. For fans of Dali's art, this is a must-see museum.

Finally, the beach. Most tourists from Europe come to Barcelona to laze on its beaches. If you have the time, join them.

Food

The place for people watching is Placa de Catalunya (PdC). The busiest stretch of La Rambla is between the PdC and the ocean where La Rambla ends. Of interest to travelers of Indian descent hooked to Indian food is the fact that there are several Indian restaurants just a few minutes off La Rambla along this stretch.

Bombay Spicy on a street named Sant Pao (right off the Rambla) is my favorite Indian restaurant in Barcelona. The server there (he seems to be the only one), a young guy by the name of Kala (real name Dhyan Singh), has an energy level that will leave you feeling like you need to step up those visits to the gym. I recommend the Dal Tarka, Karela, and Bhindi Masala. Sant Pao also has other Indo-Pak restaurants for you to consider.

A couple of blocks away from Sant Pao on the Rambla is a street called Nou de la Rambla. Walk down that street for about 7-8 minutes and you come to an intersection with Sant Pau (notice the difference!). At that intersection, you will see Bollywood Grill. This place also serves good fare and the owner there is an outstandingly gracious person. Feel free to ask him for a dish you really want even if it is not on the menu. If he can make it, he will.

Moti Mahal also on Sant Pau was the third Indian restaurant we tried. We were disappointed by the fare though our friends, who had visited on a different night, were quite happy with the dishes they ordered.